Mineral oils are derived from petroleum, similar to gasoline or diesel. They are extensively refined until only specific hydrocarbons remain. This results in a transparent oil, which is why it is also referred to as white oil.

Mineral oils offer several advantages for use in skincare products. They are easy to process and extremely stable. In contrast, vegetable oils in creams are prone to rancidity and require additional protection—something that’s not needed with mineral oils. These are synthetic and boast an indefinite shelf life, making them highly cost-effective for manufacturers.

In application, mineral oils are advantageous because they rarely cause allergies. This is partly because, as petroleum derivatives, they are foreign to our bodies. Thus, they only penetrate the upper layers of the skin. There, they form a barrier that effectively seals the skin, preventing moisture loss and leaving the surface feeling soft.

However, the sealing of the skin is problematic. The skin can no longer breathe properly and becomes sluggish. The natural regeneration processes of the skin are slowed down. If we use mineral oil-based creams to provide relief, for example, for dry skin, we must be aware that we are only achieving a short-term effect. Under the protective layer of mineral oils, the skin remains just as tense and stressed as before.

Since mineral oils cannot really penetrate the skin, they are also unsuitable for transporting vitamins and other active ingredients. Therefore, they are unsuitable for care products that have a real anti-aging effect.

There's another reason why avoiding mineral oils seems prudent. A recent study by Stiftung Warentest found aromatic hydrocarbons in all tested products. These are abbreviated as MOAH (Mineral Oil Aromatic Hydrocarbons) and MOSH (Mineral Oil Saturated Hydrocarbons). MOSH and MOAH are pollutants that are potentially carcinogenic.

The extent to which MOAH can penetrate the skin has not yet been conclusively assessed. However, lip care products containing mineral oil should certainly be avoided. These are often ingested, allowing harmful MOAH to enter the human body directly.

A good skin cream must work in harmony with the skin, enhancing its natural functions. Mineral oils, as substances foreign to the skin, have no place in this process. While they may provide short-term effects, the skin ultimately suffers under the mineral oil film.

A far superior alternative is provided by plant oils, which are made from triglycerides. These natural oils support our skin, much like sebum—the protective layer produced by the sebaceous glands, which comprises 41% of these oils.

The goal of effective cosmetics should be to replicate the structure of the skin. Therefore, the best creams are those that are skin-identical. We recommend creams based on pure phosphatidylcholine, the main component of every human cell. This allows cosmetics to create structures that mimic the skin’s architecture, providing a foundation for genuine deep action.

Sources

Stiftung Warentest – 

Wikipedia – 

Wikipedia –