Alcohol in Cosmetics – Friend or Foe?

When we talk about alcohol, we're usually referring to

ethanol

, the kind found in alcoholic beverages. Ethanol has a reputation for being irritating, making it less than ideal for gentle skincare. Look for it in ingredient lists under names like

Alcohol

,

Alcohol Denat.

,

SD Alcohol

, or

Ethanol

.

Here's the catch: '

Alcohol' isn't a one-size-fits-all term

. Chemically speaking, alcohols encompass a broad range of organic compounds. So, when you see '

Alcohol

' in various combinations on an ingredient list, not all of these alcohols are harmful.

In the world of cosmetics, alcohols fall into

two camps

: the

'good' ones

that nurture and moisturize the skin, often referred to as fatty alcohols, and the

'bad' ones

that strip away moisture, harm cells, and contribute to premature aging. Ethanol falls into the latter category.

What types of alcohols are present in cosmetics? You can easily identify 'bad' alcohols in skincare with this list:

The most well-known representative of alcohols is what we commonly call ethyl alcohol or spirits. While people often refer to it as pure alcohol, it's not chemically accurate. We label it as 'bad' alcohol and scrutinize it closely.

However, it's not just ethyl alcohol that has detrimental effects on the skin. The following issues apply to all 'bad' alcohols. It is advisable to use alcohol-free cosmetics or products without irritating alcohols.

Alcohol harms the skin barrier and causes dehydration, promoting inflammation and infections. A robust skin barrier provides protection and keeps our skin well-hydrated, slowing down the aging process and the formation of wrinkles. Therefore, opting for alcohol-free skincare or products without irritating alcohols can help strengthen our skin barrier.

Alcohol contributes to increased production of free radicals. These unstable molecules damage our skin and collagen framework, responsible for firm skin. In the worst case, alcohol may initiate programmed cell death (apoptosis), leading to the demise of healthy cells.

Free radicals, along with dehydration, are among the main culprits for the formation of wrinkles.

Alcohol worsens many skin conditions, from eczema to acne. Formulations containing alcohol can also predispose individuals to dermatitis, an inflammatory skin reaction. Therefore, alcohol should be avoided, especially by those with skin problems.

Products with high alcohol concentration can dry out and irritate the skin in the long run. Extra caution is advised around the eye area. Due to the particularly thin skin, it is generally recommended to avoid alcohol altogether. Discover what makes a good eye care routine in this article.

Good news concerning allergies—reactions to alcohol are extremely rare. That's why the cosmetic industry often uses alcohol. When it comes to allergies, fragrance compounds are more likely to be problematic.

All these harmful effects of alcohol contribute to premature skin aging. Therefore, alcohol has no place in anti-aging skincare. In this article, you'll discover which anti-aging ingredients can help keep your skin healthy and beautiful for a long time.

As almost everywhere, the rule applies to alcohol as well: The dose makes the poison. Alcohol is concerning when it ranks among the

first five ingredients

on the INCI list. This is, of course, only a rule of thumb. It always depends on the overall formulation.

 If alcohol is listed near the top, the alcohol content in the product is too high. On the other hand, if it appears as one of the last ingredients, there is not necessarily a risk of skin-damaging effects.

A small exception is

denatured alcohol

(

INCI: Alcohol Denat.

). This is denatured or altered alcohol, made undrinkable to avoid alcohol taxes. Unfortunately, denaturing agents are not good for our skin health. They often lead to allergies and irritations. We generally advise against using

Alcohol Denat

.

Alcohol can make products feel feather-light and weightless on the skin. Additionally, alcohol can mattify or instantly "de-grease" the skin.

Alcohol dissolves the protective fat from our top skin layer, the stratum corneum. So, alcohol acts similarly to surfactants, a substance group related to alcohol. Surfactants provide degreasing power in cleansing products and shampoos.

For people with oily skin, this might sound tempting at first. But beware! Not everything that glitters, or in this case, doesn't shine, is gold. Our skin ends up producing even more oil within a short time. In the long run, the skin problem worsens due to alcohol. Therefore, alcohol is contraindicated and not recommended for acne-prone skin.

Alcohol can mix with both water and fat. This property allows alcohol to dissolve active ingredients and contribute to an even distribution in cosmetic formulations.

But that's not all: Alcohol also prevents the growth of germs and bacteria in cosmetic products, making it suitable as a preservative.

Moreover, alcohol is often used as a 'penetration enhancer.' It improves the skin's ability to absorb substances. Active ingredients, such as Vitamin C, can be transported more effectively into the deeper layers of the skin thanks to alcohol.

Alcohol is commonly used in natural cosmetics, and it can easily be purchased organically. Until recently, there were few alternatives for natural cosmetics. However, this has changed. In the next paragraph, we'll introduce dioles as a compatible alternative.

Fortunately, there is a skin-friendly alternative to harmful alcohol:

diols

(Pentylene Glycol, Propylene Glycol, Propanediol, or Butylene Glycol). They serve similar functions to alcohol.

Diols have a significant advantage. Even in higher concentrations, they are extremely well-tolerated. They don't dry out our skin but instead provide moisture.

A particular diol, Pentylene Glycol, is becoming increasingly popular among manufacturers of high-quality and low-irritation cosmetics. Nowadays, there is Pentylene Glycol suitable for natural cosmetics as well. Therefore, even organic cosmetics no longer need alcohol. Nowadays, there are no excuses for using harmful alcohol in cosmetics.

By the way, we also use

Pentylene Glycol

in our Hautcreme+. It serves as a compatible preservative and 'penetration enhancer.'

Belonging to the category of 'good' alcohols are the so-called

fatty alcohols

and

wax alcohols

. These are alcohols with long molecules. Typical representatives in cosmetics include Cetyl, Cetearyl, and Stearyl Alcohol.

Fatty alcohols do not dry out the skin or cause irritation. On the contrary, they support the skin barrier and help retain moisture. Therefore, fatty alcohols are often used as a cream base.

In conclusion, alcohol is a

misunderstood substance

. Ethanol makes cosmetic products lightweight, mattifies the skin, and provides a pleasant finish. However, this occurs at the expense of increased free radical formation, skin drying, and inflammation. In high doses, alcohol promotes skin aging. Nowadays, diols like

Pentylene Glycol

serve as a skin-friendly alternative to alcohol in cosmetics.

Fatty alcohols

(e.g., Cetyl and Stearyl Alcohol) moisturize and support the skin barrier without any negative effects. Therefore, they often serve as the basis for creams.

At Beyer & Söhne, we do not use 'bad' alcohols. None of our products contain conventional alcohol, not even in very small concentrations.

Sources

Sicherheitsbewertung zu Alkohol auf der Haut – 

Studie zu den Fetten in unserer Haut –

Studie zu Fettsäuren als ‚Penetration Enhancer‘ –